Monday, May 28, 2007

White after Memorial Day

In honor of Memorial Day, I'm decked out in linen and Savory & Sweet has changed its outfit as well! Also note that the address has changed a little bit. You will be redirected to www.savoryandsweet.net if you go to your old bookmark that was at blogspot (but I recommend changing the bookmark just in case.)

The parallel is amazing: I moved, S&S moved; I changed my outfit, S&S changed too; I changed my name a little, S&S changed its name a little. Blog follows life, I guess.

I hope you enjoy the face lift, and I welcome your comments and feedback about the new look.

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Bulgur and Lentil Salad with Tarragon, Almonds and Goat Cheese



In the past three years, I have moved the same jar of lentils three times. By "moved" I mean to a different house. We packed up the couch, packed up the lentils and off we went. The couch went in the living room, the lentils went into the back of the kitchen cupboard, not to surface until our next life-changing transition. I began to resent the lentils. They stood for all those useless belongings that I can't seem to sort through in my house and that take up space that could either be full of something else or blissfully empty.

But they are perfectly good food, and I couldn't bring myself to throw them out. I ended up giving them to a friend for a craft project. Just one step away from food, if you ask me, in the levels of usefulness.

Then I started reading about French lentils. First it was on Chocolate and Zucchini. Then there they were on Buffalo Buffet. Everywhere I looked, it seemed, were lentils, lentils, lentils. But these weren't the same old brown or red lentils (it was the red ones that plagued me for three years), these are French green lentils.

These lentils are supposed to be different. Smaller and more firm than red lentils or plain old brown lentils, they are also far, far more beautiful. Like little river pebbles that are pretty enough but a bit dull, they become the most amazing colors of green, blue, and even purple as they are rinsed in water. Like little ugly ducklings, lentils have amazing inner beauty as well. The fiber, protein and low fat content that these tiny legumes pack make this an ingredient that you definitely want to work into your routine.

I found my lentils at the Lexington Co-Op in the bulk section for about $2.99 a pound. They are either called green lentils, French lentils or lentils de Puy, named after the region in France where they were grown exclusively for a long time. They are actually yellow on the inside and the green exterior is the seed coat of the bean. Lentils are so small and easy to cook that they do not need to be soaked like other beans do. They can be boiled directly from their dry state in about 20 minutes.

To continue the French theme of the lentils, I found a recipe that uses tarragon, a grassy, slightly licorice flavor that goes beautifully with the earthiness of the lentils. This also uses a base of bulgur wheat for the salad, making this recipe a great starter kit for eating lentils.

Lentils and I have some making up to do. I figured this might be a good way to ease into a better relationship with lentils and it turns out I was absolutely right.


Bulgur and Lentil Salad with Tarragon, Almonds, and Goat Cheese (loosely based on a recipe from Gourmet Magazine)

This was just as good a couple days later after all the flavors had melded. With all that protein and fiber, this makes a great lunch all on its own.

1/3 cup finely chopped shallot
3 Tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/2 cup French green lentils

1-1/2 cups water
1 cup bulgur wheat*
1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup finely chopped celery
1/2 cup finely chopped carrot
3 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves
3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup blanched toasted almonds, chopped fine
2 ounces goat cheese


In a small bowl combine the chopped shallot and 1 tablespoon of the vinegar.

In a small saucepan simmer lentils in enough water to cover by 2 inches until just tender but not falling apart, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain well. Add hot lentils to shallot mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cool mixture, stirring occasionally.

In a small heavy saucepan combine 1- 1/2 cups water, bulgur, and salt and simmer, covered, until water is absorbed, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer bulgur to a large bowl and cool completely, stirring occasionally.

Add lentil mixture to bulgur with celery, carrot, tarragon, remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar, oil, and almonds. Season with salt and pepper to taste and toss well. Crumble the goat cheese into the mixture and stir carefully to keep the cheese pieces intact.

(Serves 6-8)

*Bulgur should be available in the health food section of the grocery store or at a health food store or Co-op. (I got mine in the Nature's Marketplace at Wegman's). If you cannot find bulgur alone, buy a commercial tabbouleh mix and use only the grain, not the seasoning packet.

Saturday, May 19, 2007

The Ultimate Breakfast Sandwich



One of my favorite things about being a newlywed and a cook is finding terrific new things to make for my husband. Now I know that this is not the sort of thing that a modern woman is supposed to say, and don’t worry, I’m not going to be barefoot and pregnant any time soon. You see, I have always found so much pleasure in cooking for friends and family and now I have an even better reason, on a daily basis, to try new recipes and devise new concoctions. I’m also blessed to be married to a man who will eat almost anything. It’s amazing.

Big weekend brunches have always been a big part of life in my family, first growing up and now as an adult in my own house. For the special occasion brunches we make quiches, fruit salads, quick breads, cured salmon and all sorts of other fancy things, but for the weekly Sunday brunch, I think we have perfected the breakfast sandwich. Mike begs to differ, as he thinks that the breakfast sandwich can always be improved. He has asked me to rename this post "the penultimate breakfast sandwich", but I have yet to find a better one, so I am sticking to my guns.

A sandwich is a funny thing, really. It can be so simple, but the combination of ingredients can make or break the meal. There is also the quality of the ingredients to consider. Get good bread. Really good bread, or in this case a really good bagel. Find nice sharp cheddar cheese that will have a good strong bite. Use fresh eggs. When you are making a simple dish, it is harder than ever to hide a sub-par ingredient. We have found a really good chicken breakfast sausage patty from Hanzlians, a local sausage company. They cook beautifully on a cast iron griddle and wind up with caramelized outsides. The flavor is unbeatable.

Finally, remember to roll up your sleeves, because when you bite into this luscious sandwich, you are going to have yolk running down your hands and you are not going to want to stop eating to clean up!


The Ultimate Breakfast Sandwich

2 everything bagels (we like Wegman’s)
2 chicken breakfast sausage patties
2 eggs
4 slices sharp cheddar cheese

In a skillet or stovetop griddle, cook the sausage over high heat until cooked through and browned on the outside. Set aside.

Meanwhile, toast the bagel.

Using the fat from the sausage fry the egg in the same skillet. Flip after about 2 minutes. Cook about one more minute or until over easy.

Assemble the sandwich: Bagel, cheese, sausage, and egg.

(serves 2)

Wednesday, May 02, 2007

Polenta with Mediterranean Vegetables



Now that spring is in the air, I find myself wanting to eat more fresh vegetables and to buy things that are locally grown and lovingly delivered to the local farmers market. The one little hiccup in my plan is that the local plants have not figured this out yet. My first outdoor seeds have just started to sprout (little radishes, I think, but I can't say that it directly corresponds to anything on my clever little map of my garden) and the bulbs are in full bloom. But the strawberries, peas, and spring greens? Not yet, says Mother Nature. I've got a couple weeks before we start seeing those.

And so I must content myself with what is available at the store. Now, as I've mentioned before, I'm a really lucky girl when it comes to grocery stores. I've got Guercios* (the local Italian market), Wegman's (the Best Grocery Store on Earth), and the Lexington Co-op (our super-cool local natural food co-operative). All of those options still can't give me local fresh produce. The options look suspiciously like what was available in the middle of February (except now even the oranges look tired.)

I have developed a list of go-to foods for the winter months, a selection of vegetables that don't let me down, even when nothing is in season around here. They are my favorite Mediterranean veggies: eggplant, red bell peppers, zucchini, mushrooms, and onions. Perhaps it is because these vegetables have such strong flavors, but they seem to hold up during even the darkest months and now into the bright spring months while the local food is just beginning to take root. This is what I use for my frittatas, my veggie-loaded chili, hummus wraps, and quiches. During the depths of winter, I roast them in the oven or saute them on the stove. In the warmth of spring, I head right out to the grill. The only thing to remember is that even the go-to veggies need to be firm and brightly colored. Don't settle for a limp zucchini, even in the winter.

My all-time favorite way to serve my go-to, never-fail-me veggies is with polenta. Sometime during my adolescence, my Aunt Sue introduced my family to polenta. Polenta was nowhere to be found in our diet when I was little, but, boy, was that about to change. Sue showed us the New Basics version of polenta, which remains my favorite to this day. This polenta cooks up firm. I pour it into a pie plate or baking dish and let it cool. Then I cut it into wedges and grill or brown it in a pan. There is no mush here, just a rich, textured corn pudding with crispy outsides and a creamy inside.

After I met Mike and we had been cooking together for a while I told him I was planning to make polenta for dinner. He turned his nose up. I was amazed. Who would not like polenta? Then I learned what traditional polenta is: a corn porridge with red sauce poured over the top. Being a texture guy, Mike did not find this appealing. I told him "try my polenta. I promise you will like it." I was willing to go out on a limb with this one. I was right.

This has turned into one of our favorite meals. The great thing is that the polenta can be made in advance as can the roasted vegetables. It is pretty darn good-looking too, so this makes a great entertaining meal. The higher you build the tower, the more impressive it looks, but beware the leaning tower! Just be sure your plate is big enough to catch it if it falls.

*Guercio and Sons
250 Grant Street
Buffalo, NY 14213


Polenta with Roasted Vegetables
This is an incredibly adaptable meal. Consider ingredients in the Mediterranean family and choose your favorites. Good additions would be Nicoise or Kalamata olives, anchovies, artichoke hearts, capers, roasted tomatoes (better when they are in season), or sun dried tomatoes. Gorgonzola, feta, or blue cheese could replace the Parmesan if you so desire.

Polenta (adapted from the New Basics)
3 cups milk
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Combine milk, butter, sugar and salt in a saucepan and heat just to a simmer. Slowly add the cornmeal in a thin stream, whisking constantly.

Lower the heat. Continue stirring with a wooden spoon until the mixture has thickened and leaves the sides of the pan, about 10 minutes. Add the Parmesan, combine well and remove from the heat.

Use a rubber spatula to pour the polenta mixture into a greased 8" x 8" inch brownie pan or a pie plate. Smooth the top with your spatula. Set aside to cool. Cut into 8 slices (for the pie plate) or cut into quarters, then cut each piece again on a diagonal (for the brownie pan).

Mediterranean Vegetables
1/4 cup olive oil, separated
4 portabello mushroom caps, cut in thick slices**
2 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 small or medium zucchini, cut lengthwise in quarters
1 medium eggplant, cut in 1/4-inch thick rounds
2 red bell peppers, cut vertically in quarters
salt

**If you intend to grill the vegetables, leave the mushrooms whole until they are cooked. Marinate them prior to cooking in a mixture of the balsamic vinegar and garlic to achieve the same flavor.

Heat the oven to 425F

Heat 2 Tablespoons olive oil in a large fry pan. Add mushrooms and saute until limp. Add the garlic, saute for 2 more minutes and add the balsamic vinegar. Cook long enough to evaporate most of the liquid.

Meanwhile, place the zucchini, eggplant and peppers in a single layer on a cookie sheet or jelly roll pan. Brush with the remaining olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Put in oven and cook about 15 minutes. Flip the vegetables, brush the opposite side with oil and cook another 15 minutes or until tender to a fork.

To assemble
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup basil pesto
small chunk of Parmesan cheese or about 1/4 cup coarsely grated
balsamic vinegar

Heat a fry pan over medium-high heat. Brown the polenta on both sides. Be sure to cook long enough to heat the polenta through.

Place two wedges of the polenta on the plate, pile high with veggies and drizzle pesto over the top of each one. Use a vegetable peeler to create large curls of Parmesan on top or sprinkle with grated cheese. Finally drizzle a small stream of balsamic vinegar around the bottom.

(Serves 4 for an entree, a half portion will make 8 good appetizer portions)