S'mores Indoors

One of the best things about living in an historic neighborhood with beautiful, traditional, old houses is the fireplaces that my friends and I have at our disposal. Nothing says cozy like a crackling fire on a day when it was dark by 5pm. Even better, though, is bringing summer and winter together in an almost impossibly delicious hands-on dessert: s'mores indoors. The name was coined by my friend Rob, but it finally has grown up a little bit over the last week.

Getting together for the hockey game last week with the carbonnade was great, but we needed to wash down all the manly stew with a good winter dessert. Leftover Hershey's Kisses from Halloween was the only chocolate available, which meant we needed to be creative about our s'more construction. The answer turned out to be what you see here. We toasted the marshmallows until they were golden brown and mushy all the way through. We upended them onto graham crackers and pushed the kisses down into the soft centers of the marshmallows. We left them to sit for about 30 seconds before eating them and the chocolate, warmed from their little marshmallow sweaters, was completely melted.

Who knew campfire food could be so sophisticated? Then again, who knew dinner party dessert could be so fun?

Carbonnade a la Flamande

Last Saturday night we got together with friends and neighbors to watch the hockey game. I made dinner for the group, and wanting to choose something that mixed well with hockey, I decided that the food had better actually be made out of beer. The ingredients of this stew were declared to be "manly" by my neighbor - beef, beer and bacon, for starters. While the ingredients may be manly, the appeal of this carbonnade extends to both genders without any problem.

A carbonnade is technically just a beef stew that is made with beer. Carbonnade a la flamande is a traditional dish that originated in Northern France and Belgium. There are two differences you may see between a traditional carbonnade and the recipe here. The first is the absence of vinegar in my recipe. I'm not crazy about the flavor that it gives the dish. That said, you are more than welcome to add in about 1-1/2 teaspoons of red vine vinegar if you so desire. The second difference is the thickener used. Some of the carbonnade recipes I found call for slices of bread spread with dijon mustard that are placed on top of the stew while it cooks. These are then incorporated into the stew at the end as a thickener (and introducing the mustard flavor to the stew). I chose the simpler flour method for this recipe, which was used in many of the other carbonnade recipes I found.

This stew makes a lot of sauce, so to take advantage of all that great flavor and to slip some extra nutrients into my meal, I added carrots and parsnips to the recipe. You could always add potatoes, which are a more traditional option, but I thought the sweetness of the carrots and parsnips blended beautifully with the stew.

Although this was a Saturday night feast, this stew definitely falls into my category of things to cook on a Sunday. After minimal preparation, I spent the next two hours hopping up off the couch to see if it was done. My advice to you: set the timer for about two hours, put in a movie and stay on the couch until the buzzer goes off. Like most stews, this is even better the next day and it freezes really well. Feel free to double the recipe for a larger group or to take advantage of the leftovers after busy work days in the future.


Carbonnade a la flamande

2 thick slices of bacon, chopped
1-1/4 cup sweet onion, chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 cloves garlic
1/4 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 pound stew beef, cut into 1-1/2 inch pieces
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 bottle dark beer (12 ounces)*
1 cup beef broth
14.5 ounce can diced tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme
2 bay leaves

3 carrots, peeled
3 parsnips, peeled

Preheat oven to 325 F. In a large Dutch oven over medium heat add the bacon. Cook until some of the fat begins to render. Add the onion and salt. Cook until the onion is translucent and limp, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 30 seconds longer. Remove onion mixture from the pan and set aside.

Combine the flour and pepper in a bowl. Add the beef and stir well to coat the meat. In the same Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the meat and brown it on all sides, toasting the flour well, about 4-5 minutes.

Add the beer, tomatoes, and beef broth. Scrape the bottom of the pan to release the browned bits. Add the onion mixture back to the pan. Add the brown sugar, mustard, thyme, and bay leaves. Combine well, cover, and cook in the oven for about 2 to 2-1/2 hours. The meat should be fork-tender.

Meanwhile, cut the carrots and parsnips into 1/2 inch slices. In a medium saucepan, cover the vegetables with water and boil until tender. Drain and set aside. Add to the stew when finished.**

(makes 6 servings)

* I used Saranac Black and Tan, which turned out great and had the bonus of being from my native New York State. For a more traditional flavor, aim for a Belgian ale, particularly a tripel.

** The vegetables will heat up really quickly once they are added to the stew. These can be cooked in advance and added to the stew when it is done, just be sure not to overcook them.

Sweet Fig Compote

In my family we have what can only be characterized as a condiment problem. My sister actually drank ketchup with a straw when she was little (to be fair, I think it was a dare, but note that there was no reward involved and we only had to ask her once). For Christmas one year, my brother and I gave her a six-pack of mustard. And she loved it.

I currently have 7 different varieties of jam open in my fridge, not to mention the 5 varieties of mustard, ketchup, hoisin sauce, peanut butter, and marmalade. Mike noticed this recently and nearly threw a fit. He could not believe the number of different jams that were open. I put some good effort into finishing one of them to reduce the number. Then I opened another.

It only follows that I would like to make even more condiments to add to my collection. Dishes don't feel complete to me unless they are served with something: a sauce, a gravy or (dare I say) a compote. It allows for each bite to have a different flavor. More condiments mean more different and delicious bites I can compose right there on my plate.

In my entry on Savory Fig Compote, I promised a sweet version, so here it is. This plays off the flavors of the Mediterranean, using honey and lemon to enhance the earthy sweetness of the fig. The little bit of salt in this recipe is important for balancing the flavors, making the sweetness of the honey a bit more evident.

This is outstanding paired with Gorgonzola on baguette, as shown above, but don’t forget to try this with pork tenderloin or roasted chicken, spread it on some toast made with wonderfully grainy bread, or drop a dollop onto some unsweetened yogurt for a real treat.


Sweet Fig Compote

1 cup dried figs, chopped
1 cup water
1/4 cup golden raisins
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 Tablespoons honey

In a small pot over medium-low heat, combine figs, water, raisins and salt. Cook until reduced to a jam consistency. Add vanilla, lemon juice, and honey. Cook about 2 minutes longer.

(makes about 1-1/2 cups)

Sunday Frittata

Weekend mornings are great times to indulge in brunch, but I am usually not in the mood for a fussy restaurant brunch that involves hollandaise sauce and mimosas. We typically head around the corner to our favorite Greek restaurant, Mythos, or we settle in at home with a pot of coffee and make a frittata.

The challenge for me on a Sunday morning is to be unspeakably lazy and still enjoy and indulgent brunch as though I had been cooking all morning. A frittata is the perfect solution because it is cooked in the oven and does not need the kind of attention that omelettes or pancakes require. Frittatas can also be really healthy brunch options, unlike many of the restaurant options, depending on what kind of fillings you add. I usually pack mine full of veggies to increase the bulk of the breakfast (not to mention the wonderful flavors) and give myself a few of my 9 servings of vegetables that are very hard to get in on a Sunday!

The one I made this morning was a really basic version that took advantage of what was available in the fridge. The one thing that separates a normal frittata from a great one is using fresh herbs. I like to use a mixture of basil, parsley, and chives normally. This morning I only had parsley and thyme and it still added a bright fresh flavor to the breakfast.

The general formula that I follow is veggies + egg + cheese + fresh herbs = frittata goodness. Very simple. Just be sure to saute the vegetables if necessary to get rid of extra moisture and it is sure to be a success. When I finish it in the oven the egg poofs up, resulting in a remarkably light but filling lazy breakfast.


Basic Frittata

1 Tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup sliced sweet peppers (I used green, red, and yellow)
5 oz frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
4 eggs
1 cup egg beaters *
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1-2 Tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (basil, parsley, chives, thyme, chervil, or cilantro)
2 oz grated or crumbled cheese**

Preheat oven to 425 F.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in an oven-safe medium skillet. Add the onions and peppers and saute until limp. Add the spinach and heat through.

Meanwhile, combine the eggs, egg beaters, salt, pepper and herbs in a small bowl. Whisk vigorously to break the yolks and lighten the eggs.

Add the egg mixture to the vegetables. Move the mixture around in the pan to begin cooking the eggs, about 1-2 minutes. Slide the pan into the oven and cook until firm, about five minutes. If you would like the frittata browned on top, put it under the broiler for about a minute when it is almost set. Remember that the handle will be extremely hot when you take it out of the oven.

This can be eaten immediately or can wait for a bit while the bacon and toast are finishing! (also makes great leftovers!)

(serves 4)


* This recipe will work just fine with 8 eggs or 2 cups of egg substitute, as your diet dictates. I mix the two for a good compromise of indulgence and health.

** I used goat cheese, which was great. Try to choose a cheese that goes well with the flavors of your fillings. I usually use Swiss, cheddar or goat cheese because they have such good flavors.

Boo! Happy Halloween!

When I was a little girl, I wanted to be a princess for Halloween. My mom indulged my whim (probably thanking the stars above that I didn't want to be a fried egg, like my neighbor did). And so my mom made me a blue, pink, and silver princess dress, complete with sequins and a poofy skirt. It was absolutely magical. Until it was time to go trick-or-treating. It was snowing outside, as it sometimes does in Western New York at the end of October. Suddenly I was the princess in a parka.

Night before last I was a witch, in hat only, and had some friends over to sit on the porch, all bundled up, and enjoy that when the first princess came up to the door, she was wearing a parka and she still looked like a perfect little princess.

We get so many kids coming by on Halloween that there is no point going up to our apartment. We just camp out on the front porch and enjoy ourselves. My favorite trick (appropriated from my friend Devon) is to put apple cider in the crockpot, leave it on low all night and plant a bottle of rum next to it. The cider was hot and ready all night and kept us toasty down there on the porch (the rum probably helped too!)

The other night was a perfect time to feature squash, another of my favorite Autumn foods. This soup can either be a spicy soup or a sweeter one, it is up to you, but the salty bacon, fresh, bright scallions, sweet pears, and smooth squash make an amazing combination.


Spicy (or not) Squash Soup

1 cup onion, chopped
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 teaspoons fresh grated ginger
5 cups butternut squash (about 2-2.5 lbs)
4 cups water
1 teaspoon chipotle pepper in adobo, chopped (optional)
1 pear, chopped into 1/2 inch pieces
1 teaspoon olive oil
6 strips bacon, cooked to a crisp and crumbled
2 green onions, green parts only, sliced

Peel squash, cut vertically and scoop out and discard seeds and pulp. Cut into about 1 inch pieces.

Heat olive oil in a large heavy-bottom pan over medium heat. Add onions and salt. Saute until very soft and translucent. Do not allow to brown. Add ginger and cook about 30 seconds longer.

Add squash and water. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer until the squash is tender, about 20 minutes. Add chipotle pepper if using.

Using caution with the hot liquid, transfer the soup to a blender or food processor and process until smooth.

In a separate pan, heat the additional teaspoon of olive oil over high heat. When very hot, add the chopped pear and cook until brown around the edges.

Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with bacon, green onion and pear and serve.

(serves 6-8)